{"id":10065,"date":"2016-11-20T18:57:45","date_gmt":"2016-11-20T18:57:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.bioecoactual.com\/2016\/11\/20\/roba-respectuosa-amb-el-planeta-la-importancia-de-coneixer-la-tracabilitat-de-les-peces-que-comprem-per-joaquim-elcacho\/"},"modified":"2017-05-13T17:28:33","modified_gmt":"2017-05-13T17:28:33","slug":"roba-respectuosa-amb-el-planeta-la-importancia-de-coneixer-la-tracabilitat-de-les-peces-que-comprem-per-joaquim-elcacho","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.bioecoactual.com\/ca\/2016\/11\/20\/roba-respectuosa-amb-el-planeta-la-importancia-de-coneixer-la-tracabilitat-de-les-peces-que-comprem-per-joaquim-elcacho\/","title":{"rendered":"Roba respectuosa amb el planeta. La import\u00e0ncia de con\u00e8ixer la tra\u00e7abilitat de les peces que comprem. Per Joaquim Elcacho"},"content":{"rendered":"

Un total de 1.138 persones van morir el 24 d’abril de 2013 a la ciutat de Savar, a Bangla Desh, despr\u00e9s que s’ensorr\u00e9s un bloc de vuit pisos conegut com Rana Plaza. Bona part dels morts, i dels 2.500 ferits, eren treballadors subcontractats per empreses occidentals del sector de la moda, entre les que es trobaven diverses companyies espanyoles.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Com es va poder confirmar en poques hores, l’edifici sinistrat no reunia les condicions m\u00ednimes de seguretat i els seus ocupants eren obligats a treballar en condicions lamentables.<\/p>\n

La trag\u00e8dia de l’edifici Rana Plaza ha estat de moment l’exponent m\u00e9s clar d’un problema que s’arrossega des de fa anys: centenars de grans marques de pa\u00efsos rics fabriquen els seus productes -especialment de roba i cal\u00e7at- en regions en desenvolupament, en els quals s’explota als treballadors i on no es respecta el medi ambient (contaminaci\u00f3, producci\u00f3 de subst\u00e0ncies t\u00f2xiques, destrucci\u00f3 d’espais naturals…)<\/p>\n

Qu\u00e8 podem fer per evitar aquest tipus de situacions?<\/h3>\n

A m\u00e9s de reclamar que les empreses siguin responsables de la seva activitat i respectin a les persones i al conjunt de la natura, un dels instruments que els consumidors haur\u00edem d’exigir \u00e9s la tra\u00e7abilitat dels productes que comprem, i en concret, de les peces que vestim.<\/p>\n

La tra\u00e7abilitat \u00e9s la possibilitat d’identificar l’origen i les diferents etapes d’un proc\u00e9s de producci\u00f3 i distribuci\u00f3 de b\u00e9ns de consum<\/strong>, en aquest cas, de la roba. Amb aquest tipus de dades al nostre abast, per exemple, podr\u00edem con\u00e8ixer en quin pa\u00eds han estat fabricats els nostres pantalons i cadascun dels materials amb els quals ha estat confeccionada aquesta pe\u00e7a (teixit, botons, cremallera…).<\/p>\n

Con\u00e8ixer l’origen geogr\u00e0fic de la nostra roba ens pot ajudar a descartar aquells productes fabricats per empreses que vulneren els drets dels treballadors o que incompleixen les normes elementals de control dels productes t\u00f2xics.<\/p>\n

Aix\u00ed, perqu\u00e8 la tra\u00e7abilitat del producte fos perfecta, haur\u00edem de tenir acc\u00e9s a informaci\u00f3 sobre els processos de fabricaci\u00f3 d’aquests pantalons, de manera que pogu\u00e9ssim descartar la pres\u00e8ncia de subst\u00e0ncies t\u00f2xiques acumulades durant el cultiu del cot\u00f3 o el tint de la roba<\/strong>, per exemple.<\/p>\n

\"organic<\/a><\/p>\n

Si volem que el nostre comprom\u00eds amb el planeta sigui m\u00e9s gran, haur\u00edem de demanar a les empreses del sector t\u00e8xtil que es comprometin a reduir el seu impacte sobre el medi ambient, contribueixin a la lluita contra el canvi clim\u00e0tic i siguin respectuoses amb recursos essencials com l’aigua.<\/p>\n

Potser no ens hem parat mai a pensar en aquest detall per\u00f2 la fabricaci\u00f3 d’uns pantalons texans (de talla mitjana) requereix l’\u00fas d’entre 2.130 i 3.078 litres d’aigua, un volum que est\u00e0 determinat principalment per la mat\u00e8ria primera amb qu\u00e8 est\u00e0 fabricat , el cot\u00f3. Aquest c\u00e0lcul de l’anomenat impacte h\u00eddric<\/strong>, \u00e9s el resultat d’un estudi presentat el 2013 per investigadors de la Universitat Polit\u00e8cnica de Madrid (UPM) amb el suport de la Fundaci\u00f3 Bot\u00edn i el seu Observatori de l’Aigua.<\/p>\n

Durant els \u00faltims anys, diverses empreses del sector de la moda i la confecci\u00f3 han incorporat al seu comprom\u00eds de Responsabilitat Social Corporativa (RSC) la defensa del medi ambient i el respecte de les condicions de treball a les seves factories i subministradors. Algunes d’aquestes empreses informen als seus clients l’origen dels seus productes (tra\u00e7abilitat) i de les accions que duen a terme per reduir l’impacte ambiental de la seva activitat.<\/p>\n

L’esfor\u00e7 d’aquestes empreses ha de ser reconegut pels consumidors, tot i que en alguns casos s’ha de vigilar que no es tracti simplement de noves estrat\u00e8gies de m\u00e0rqueting.<\/p>\n

En aquest sentit, Greenpeace<\/strong> va presentar el passat mes de gener un estudi titulat ‘Deixant empremta’<\/strong> on es detallaven “les subst\u00e0ncies t\u00f2xiques i perilloses per a la salut humana i el medi ambient trobades en diferents productes de primeres marques de roba de muntanya com The North Face, Columbia, Patag\u00f2nia, Mammut i Hagl\u00f6fs”.<\/i> L’organitzaci\u00f3 ecologista assegurava que aquestes empreses, “segueixen usant compostos t\u00f2xics com els PFC (per- i poli- fluorocarbonos) per impermeabilitzar les seves peces, tot i presentar-se com empreses sostenibles i compromeses amb la natura”.<\/i><\/p>\n

Aquest informe centrat en les marques de roba i complements de muntanya formava part de la campanya gen\u00e8rica iniciada el 2011 per Greenpeace per demanar que el m\u00f3n de la moda es comprometi a abandonar l’\u00fas de productes t\u00f2xics. Un dels resultats d’aquesta campanya va ser la publicaci\u00f3 el 2012 de l’informe ‘Puntades t\u00f2xiques: El fosc secret de la moda’<\/strong>. En aquest cas, despr\u00e9s d’analitzar peces d’una vintena de fabricants, la principal conclusi\u00f3 era que, “totes les marques incloses en aquest estudi tenien un o m\u00e9s productes que contenien nivells detectables de NPE (ftalats i nonilfenols etoxilats)”. “La contaminaci\u00f3 es va detectar en peces que procedien de 13 dels 18 pa\u00efsos de fabricaci\u00f3, i en productes venuts en 25 dels 27 pa\u00efsos analitzats”<\/i>, indicava l’informe de Greenpeace.<\/p>\n

La responsabilitat social i ecol\u00f2gica de les empreses i la tra\u00e7abilitat dels seus productes s’han d’estendre al m\u00f3n de la moda i la confecci\u00f3, per\u00f2 encara estem lluny d’aconseguir-ho. L’informe Behind the Barcode<\/strong> de 2015 indica que el 75% de les marques que posen productes de roba al mercat no coneixen amb detall l’origen dels seus productes i que el 48% d’elles no han incorporat dades de tra\u00e7abilitat a les etiquetes.<\/p>\n

Autor:\u00a0<\/strong>Joaquim Elcacho<\/a>, periodista especialitzat en medi ambient i ci\u00e8ncia<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Un total de 1.138 persones van morir el 24 d’abril de 2013 a la ciutat de Savar, a Bangla Desh, després que s’ensorrés un bloc de vuit pisos conegut com Rana Plaza. Bona part dels morts, i dels 2.500 ferits, eren treballadors subcontractats per empreses occidentals del sector de la moda, entre les que es […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":419,"featured_media":10062,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7164],"tags":[1650,4839,4840],"class_list":["post-10065","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-actualitat","tag-ropa","tag-ropa-etica","tag-textil-textil-organico"],"yoast_head":"\nRoba respectuosa amb el planeta. La import\u00e0ncia de con\u00e8ixer la tra\u00e7abilitat de les peces que comprem. 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